Ni chome gay bar

Bookmark the permalink. After a year of working at Gold Finger, she feels like the bar has become home — a sanctuary in Japan after “realizing how heteronormative the country still is.”

“This Ni-chome and lesbian community has given me more than I could ever repay,” she tells me.

Some venues may charge different entrance fees based on gender or appearance to maintain their desired atmosphere. Unlike the other gay towns, which tend to be almost exclusively gay male-focused, there is truly something for everyone in Shinjuku Ni-chome: from legendary lesbian and sapphic bars like Gold Finger and Dorobune, to the famous drag queen-hosted Campy!

By the late 1950s, Ni-chōme was known for its popularity in the gay community, and a vibrant club scene started to emerge. Labianna even performs drag shows during outdoor events here.

"There are always people enjoying drinks at the outdoor tables, so even first-timers feel comfortable. In his chapter, “Lifestyles in the Gay Bars” in Queer Voices written in 1955, Kazuhiko Kabiya states that Ueno at this time only had one gay bar; there are now roughly 100.

Speaking of his relationship with Ni-chome, longtime Japan resident and self-described “Mayor of Ni-chome” Don Cortez explains: “In my twenties, Ni-chome was a way to engage with other people who I wouldn’t otherwise be exposed to. Arrive around 9pm or 10pm, or later when there are more people. The district has played a crucial role in the visibility and acceptance of LGBTQ+ individuals in Japan, acting as a catalyst for social change and advocacy.

However, the community still faces several challenges:

• Legal recognition: Japan still lacks national recognition of same-sex partnerships, though some municipalities have introduced partnership systems
• Social stigma: Despite progress, LGBTQ+ individuals may face discrimination in workplaces, schools, and even families
• Gentrification: Rising property values in Shinjuku have led to the closure of some long-standing LGBTQ+ establishments
• Aging population: Many bars cater to specific age groups, potentially excluding older LGBTQ+ individuals
• Online dating: The rise of dating apps has impacted the traditional bar scene

Despite these challenges, Shinjuku Ni-chōme remains a vibrant and essential part of Tokyo's LGBTQ+ landscape.

Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, this beloved bar is known for its open-air vibe—guests can sip drinks inside or out front.

Staff member Chris, whose Instagram posts keep regular customers entertained.

Though compact inside, the space naturally encourages conversation with fellow patrons.

Bar, run by a drag queen, on Naka-dori Avenue, Shinjuku Ni-chome

Dining options in and around Shinjuku Ni-chōme

While Ni-chōme is primarily known for its nightlife, the area also offers a variety of dining options for those looking to grab a bite before or after their night out. While the area centers queer experiences, it warmly invites all who bring respect and a spirit of allyship.

Stop by “Kanva,” a Creative Washoku Spot, Before a Night Out

Established in 2011, "Kanva“ offers inventive Japanese cuisine enhanced with global spices.

Over the years, the district has witnessed significant milestones in Japan's LGBTQ+ history, including:

• The establishment of a counseling room for young gay men in 1976
• The first AIDS candlelight vigil in 1986
• The inauguration of Tokyo's annual International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival in 1992
• Japan's first lesbian and gay pride parade in 1994
• The founding of Japan's first gay community center, AKTA

Today, Shinjuku Ni-chōme continues to be a hub for LGBTQ+ culture and activism in Japan, despite facing challenges such as gentrification and the rise of online dating platforms.

Elegant greenery-covered Bikitan bar at left, with gay bars behind, Shinjuku 2-chome, Tokyo.

Navigating the diverse bar and club scene in Ni-chōme

Ni-chōme's bar and club scene is remarkably diverse, catering to various subsets of the LGBTQ+ community.

Just because we dress boldly doesn’t mean boundaries don’t matter. You can really relax here." (Labianna)

"The concept of cover charges might be unfamiliar to overseas guests, but in Japan, it’s standard in bars and small eateries. Avoiding dehumanizing the people in the neighborhood or turning them into a spectacle with non-consensual photography or gawking.

Respect and human decency always come first." ( Labianna)

Same-sex marriage has yet to be legalized in Japan, and there are still no comprehensive laws to protect LGBTQ+ individuals. Today, it has grown into a vibrant nightlife district with 300–400 establishments, including gay bars, lesbian bars, and mixed bars that welcome people regardless of gender or sexuality.

At the same time, the number of bars across the five historic neighborhoods has also steadily increased. “It’s a little messy sometimes, but it’s cozy and warm. The transformation of Ni-chōme into a gay district is closely tied to the fall of Tokyo's red-light districts following the passage of the Prostitution Prevention Law in 1956.

As the traditional sex industry left Ni-chōme, a gay subculture began to fill its place.